Caves on the Atlantic Coast, near Kilkee

J. Stirling Coyne & N. P. Willis
c. 1841
Volume II, Chapter XII-6 | Start of chapter

One of the CAVES ON THE ATLANTIC is thus described. "The sea has now become smooth by the wind blowing off shore for two or three days, and the weather is settled; and being kindly accommodated with a ship's small boat, which was picked up at sea by some fishermen, we this evening set out to visit a cavern about two miles from Kilkee. After rowing out of the bay, and finding ourselves on the mighty Atlantic, I may acknowledge we felt more at ease in a boat with a keel and rudder than we had done in a canoe, although the motion was much slower from the boat being heavier. We were accompanied by another party in a canoe, who soon got ahead of us. Having cleared the rocks of Duganna, the great expanse of water presented a magnificent appearance; the nearest point on the opposite shore was that of Newfoundland, two thousand miles distant. In passing along the dark cliffs, the Amphitheatre, the Puffing Cavern, the Flat, or Diamond rocks in succession, arrested our attention and excited admiration.

"Having arrived at the mouth of the cave, we lay to, in order to take soundings, and to examine the majestic perpendicular cliffs, one hundred and fifty feet high, by which we were surrounded, throwing their dark shade on the water, which gave it the appearance of a sea of ink. The water here was thirty-three feet deep. We were gently wafted into this magnificent cavern, of which I can only give a faint sketch; but to enable the reader to form some idea of its size, I shall give the best computation we were able to make. The height of the rude arch at the entrance, by comparison with the cliff above, appeared to be about sixty feet, and lowered as it receded to thirty or forty; the breadth at the bottom was the same; there were great blocks and angles of rock projecting on either side; within the entrance to the left were a number of stalagmalites, formed by the dropping from above, and standing on a sloping rock, like small brownish sugar-loaves. The roof presented a beautiful variety of rich metallic tinges, from the copper, iron, and other mineral substances held in solution by the water, which kept continually dropping from the top, and gave increased effect to the light thrown in at the entrance, which formed a striking contrast with the darkness at the upper end: on the right a number of stalactites lined the side, having the appearance of a drapery of sea-weeds, and produced a handsome effect.

The echo here is astonishing. After proceeding inward about two hundred and fifty feet, the light becomes very dim, and the cavern narrower, making an angle to the left. A jutting rock at the entrance of this angle shuts out the little light, on which account the inner chamber is rendered nearly dark. Proceeding on slowly, and having a boat not liable to be injured by touching a rock, we allowed it to float in by the effect of the swell, until the awful and profound silence was broken by the noise of the boat touching the rock at the extreme end, which broke upon the ear with an indescribably deep and impressive sound, as it reverberated from the roof and sides. Whilst in the dark part we perceived what was also noticed by another party, that the dipping of the oars and the dropping from the roof produced a sparkling appearance under the water—caused, no doubt, by the air-bubbles reflecting the little light which we could scarcely perceive. On leaving this gloomy place and emerging into day, the sunbeams were shining outside the entrance of the cave, about two hundred and fifty feet distant, and hence reflected on the dark rippling water within; and again, being thrown upon the rough-arched roof, rendered still more brilliant by its beautiful metallic tints, broke like a scene of fancied enchantment upon the delighted vision. We were followed into the cave by two men in a canoe, who brought some very fine fish just caught; and this curious coincidence probably occasioned the first market that ever was held in this magnificent cavern."